Winter Driving Advice Revision 1996.B Daniel I. Applebaum If you get snow tires for a passenger car, get narrow tires. If your car normally uses 225mm tires, 185mm isn't a bad idea. I used 185R14 Nokia NR09 tires on my MA61 for a year and was very pleased. Much better on snow than my 225/60HR14 BFG Comp T/As. Cornering on drive pavement was nervewracking, of course. On my 4Runner, I have deflated the tires to 24psi, however, which is opposite of the above advice for narrow tires, but it is a very different type of vehicle. Cables are like chains (sometimes called "cable chains") made out of maybe 1/8" thick cable instead of chain link. There are two pieces that rest against each sidewall of the tire, then cross pieces that cross the tread, providing increased traction. While not as traction enhancing as link chains, cable chains still make a huge difference. The also have less vibration than link chains. All types of chains are a pain to install, but cables'll be easier than links. Make sure to get a pair that has a way to restrain the loose tails. If you get snow tires and also want to use chains, get snow tires with a slightly smaller diameter than your stock tires will give you more clearance between the top of the tire and the wheel well. On the other hand, it'll reduce your ground clearance, which is not really what you want to do in winter. Around here, many auto parts stores and grocery stores sell both types of chains. When driving with chains, don't exceed 30mph (or what the manufacturer recommends) and don't spin the tires. 4WD helps you accelerate, but doesn't really help you stop. Chains help you accelerate and decelerate. They will greatly increase your safety. The other alternative, with which I have no experience, is using studded tires. This winter I've been using cables on the front and link chains on the rear of my 4Runner. 4WD with chains is great. Another thing to be aware of in cold climates is oil viscosity. If you normally run 20w-?? in summer, switch to 10w-?? in winter. Otherwise starting your car will be very difficult. I recommend against 20w-?? if the weather drops below freezing. Always use antifreeze washer fluid and coolant. Keep an ice-scraper in the car *at all times*. Carry a small plastic or metal shovel. Keep your washer level high. Leave your headlights up if it gets really cold. The washer fluid must be rated to well below the ambient temperatures because evaporation will cool it once it strikes the windshield. It is sometimes imperative to put the heater on the defrost setting with hot air blowing at maximum fan speed on the windshield to keep ice from forming on the outside while driving. In a snow storm, this is essential. Always use fresh, not recirculated, air unless there's a diesel (gag) truck in front of you. If interior fogging occurs, add the A/C to help eliminate it. I often wind up driving with the heat cranked way the hell up, blowing on the windshield, but the side windows open to keep me from overheating. INSTALL TOW HOOKS! Don't put a wet key into a lock. Don't leave your sunglasses in your car overnight. Carry a tow strap and a recovery strap. A tow strap doesn't stretch, but has metal hooks on both ends. A recovery strap stretches, but is sewn in loops at the ends. For serious pulling, when getting a running start with the rescuing vehicle, never use a tow strap. I keep two pieces of wood in my car for use in extricating myself or others from snow banks. Each piece is 2"x6"x48". At best, use a HiLift jack to raise the vehicle and insert the wood underneath the tires on one axle. At worst, try to jam the wood as far under the tires of one axle as possible. Drive slowly until your lubricants are warmed up. The viscosity increases dramatically at low temperatures. When I park in winter, I raise the wiper arms to make it easier to scrape ice off the windshield. Unfortunately, my Supra doesn't allow this, but my 4Runner does. Scrape the blades free of ice before use. *Don't* use the windshield wipers to clear a lot of snow off the windshield. I broke mine last winter when I tried to use the wipers to clear 3" of snow. The motor stalled, which means it's delivering a lot of torque, and it broke one of the wiper linkages. Use your arm or icescraper. When driving slowly in traffic, watch your electrical loads. That little red light doesn't mean "battery discharge," it means "alternator failure." So, with the rear defroster on, headlights on, radio on, wipers on, A/C on (to clear fogging), and brake lights on, while creeping in traffic, you can easily be discharging your battery. Do this long enough, and your car will die, and you'll be stuck in the road. Make sure the voltmeter is reading nice and strong. You can also use lower gears to make sure you are running the engine faster. Keep warm boots, a hat, mittens or gloves, waterproof pants and a waterproof jacket in your car on a trip of any length. Also keep a supply of water and energy food (apricot Clif Bars are my favorite) in the car. Dan.